Miter Saw: The Fast, Accurate Way to Cut Trim and Framing

What is a miter saw?

A miter saw is a circular saw mounted on a hinged arm above a flat table. You set your board against a fence at the back of the table, pull the saw down, and the blade cuts through it. Because the blade always travels the same path, every cut is square and repeatable.

The word "miter" means an angled cut across the face of a board, like the corner of a picture frame. You turn the saw on its base to set the angle. Many saws also tilt the blade sideways, called a bevel, which angles the edge of the board. Set both at once and you have a compound cut, the kind used for crown molding where the ceiling meets the wall.

Trim carpenters, framers and deck builders reach for a miter saw first when they have a pile of boards to cut to length. It turns lumber into accurate pieces faster than any other saw a homeowner is likely to own.

Why you'll want it

A miter saw does one job, crosscutting boards, and does it so well that many carpenters would give up other tools first.

Square, clean cuts every time. Cutting a board square with a handheld saw takes practice and a guide. A miter saw gives you a square cut by default, which makes joints and trim tight.

Fast repeat cuts. Set a stop block or a mark and cut ten, twenty or a hundred identical pieces in minutes. Deck boards, fence pickets, studs and baseboard all go quickly. A feet-and-inch fraction calculator is handy for turning a cut list into exact lengths.

Accurate angles. The detent stops click at the common angles. Corners of baseboard, picture frames, window casing and roof rafters all depend on angles being right.

Less fatigue. The saw does the work. You line up the cut, lower the handle and stay in control.

Better looking finish work. Trim shows every gap. A clean miter at a corner is the difference between a room that looks custom and one that looks rushed.

Where you will use one

• Trim and molding: baseboard, door and window casing, chair rail and crown.
• Framing: studs, plates, blocking and rafters cut to length.
• Decks and fences: deck boards, posts and pickets in batches. Use a deck calculator to count the boards first.
• Projects: shelves, picture frames, workbenches and furniture parts.
• Flooring: cutting boards and trim pieces to length during a floor install.

What it will not do

A miter saw is a crosscut tool. It cuts across a board, not along it, so ripping a wide board into narrow strips is a job for a table saw or circular saw. It also lives in one place. You carry the work to the saw, which is the opposite of a circular saw, where you carry the saw to the work. If most of your cuts are long boards in awkward spots, a circular saw may serve you better, and many people eventually own both.

Setting it up for a small shop

You do not need a big workshop. A folding stand with extended wings holds the saw at table height and supports long boards on both sides. Place it near an outlet, leave a few feet of clear floor behind it, and keep a shop vacuum nearby. A clean, flat floor under the stand makes the whole setup steadier, and cuts will come out more accurate.

Sliding or not, single or dual bevel?

A sliding saw cuts wider boards but is heavier and needs room behind it for the rails. A dual bevel saw tilts both ways so you do not have to flip the board, but it costs more. For most homeowners and many trim carpenters, a non-sliding, single bevel 12-inch saw is plenty. Bob Vila's testers make the same point about the DEWALT DWS715. They note the lack of a sliding arm, then add that a 12-inch blade still handles most boards used in residential work.

What buyers and testers say about the DEWALT DWS715

We read the customer-review summary on the saw's Amazon listing, the maker's page, Bob Vila's tested DEWALT roundup and several video reviews.

According to the listing's review summary, buyers praise the ease of use, solid build, accuracy (several say it was well set from the box), cutting performance and value. Bob Vila's testers called it powerful and precise on dimensional lumber and trim, and liked its 36-pound weight for moving between jobs. They also gave it top marks for ease of use and portability.

The common complaints are about what it leaves out. It has no sliding arm, so wide boards are limited by the blade. It tilts for bevels only to the left. And the same review summary says durability gets mixed reviews: some buyers say it is built to last, while others report a failure after a short period of use.

How to use it

Read your saw's manual first. These steps are the routine most safety guides teach, and they hold for beginners and experienced users alike.

1. Put on eye and ear protection. A miter saw throws sawdust and chips and is very loud. Tie back long hair and avoid loose sleeves that could catch.
2. Unplug the saw and check the blade. The blade should be sharp, tight and installed in the right direction. Check that the guard moves freely.
3. Set the saw on a stable surface. Use a proper stand or a solid bench. A wobbling saw gives wobbling cuts.
4. Mark the board. Use a pencil and a square. Mark the waste side of the line with an X so you do not cut on the wrong side.
5. Set the angle. Rotate the table to the angle you need and lock it. Use the detent for common angles, and double-check the scale before cutting.
6. Hold the board firmly against the fence. Keep your hands at least six inches from the blade. Clamp short or small pieces instead of holding them.
7. Line up the blade. With the saw off and the blade lowered, check that it sits just outside the line, on the waste side.
8. Start the saw and let it reach full speed. Squeeze the trigger, wait for the blade to spin up, then lower it slowly through the board.
9. Hold the saw down until the blade stops. Release the trigger and keep the handle down until the blade stops spinning, then lift it.
10. Unplug before changing anything. Any time you change the blade or adjust the saw, unplug it first.

Tips for accurate cuts

• Cut a test piece. Cut a scrap to the same angle and check it with a square. Fix the saw, not the board.
• Use a stop block for repeat cuts. Clamp a scrap to the fence at the length you want and every piece will match.
• Support long boards. Use roller stands or scrap blocks at the same height as the table so the board does not tip or bind.
• Practice crown molding on scrap first. Crown sits at an angle on the wall, so it is cut with a compound angle. Cut a few pieces of scrap and test the corners before you cut the real trim.
• Keep the blade sharp. A sharp finish blade with many teeth leaves a cleaner edge on trim than a framing blade.

Common mistakes

• Holding small pieces by hand. A short piece can twist and pull your fingers toward the blade. Clamp it or use a longer piece.
• Forcing the blade down. Let the blade cut at its own speed. Forcing it burns the wood and dulls the blade.
• Skipping the square check. A saw knocked out of square in transit cuts every piece wrong. Check it occasionally.
• Lifting the saw before the blade stops. The spinning blade can catch the board and throw it.
• Cutting on the wrong side of the line. The blade removes wood. Cut on the waste side so the finished piece is the right length.

What to look for when buying

All miter saws do the same basic job. A few details decide how accurate, how easy and how long-lived yours will be.

Blade size. 12-inch saws cut wider boards and are the common standard. 10-inch saws are lighter and fine for trim.

Sliding or fixed. A sliding saw cuts wider boards. A fixed saw is simpler, lighter and more compact.

Bevel. A single bevel tilts one way. A dual bevel tilts both ways and saves flipping the board on compound cuts.

Detents and scales. Look for firm stops at the common angles and a scale that is easy to read. A loose detent defeats the point of the saw.

Fence. The fence should be flat, tall enough for your trim and easy to adjust. A warped fence ruins accuracy.

Dust handling. Most saws catch only part of the dust. A port for a shop vacuum helps a lot indoors.

Weight and stand. A lighter saw is easier to carry. A rolling stand makes a saw usable on any job and gives long boards support.

Tier. Budget saws handle occasional projects. Mid-range saws add steadier detents, better fences and a longer life. Pro saws are built for daily jobsite use. For most homeowners, a mid-range 12-inch saw is the sweet spot.

The table below sums up the key specs so you can compare models side by side.

Key specs to look for

Where to get it

For this guide we're featuring the DEWALT DWS715, a corded 12-inch single bevel compound miter saw. According to the maker's page, it has a 15-amp motor running at 4,000 RPM, a stainless-steel miter detent plate with 14 positive stops, and a bevel range of 0 to 48 degrees to the left. It comes with a 12-inch carbide-tipped blade, a dust bag and a vertical clamp. It sits in the mid-range tier. We picked it because it is widely stocked, comes from a long-established tool brand, and has the feature set we would want a first-time buyer to have.

DEWALT 12-Inch Miter Saw, 15-Amp, Single Bevel, Compound (DWS715)

Mid ($$)Worth-owning score 8.3/10

• A 12-inch blade and 15-amp motor that handle standard lumber and most trim, according to the product listing
• A stainless-steel miter detent plate with positive stops at the common angles, so repeat cuts match
• Single bevel design keeps it simpler and lighter than a dual bevel saw while still tilting the blade for angled cuts

View on Amazon

How we scored it

Usefulness 9/10 · Value 8/10 · Durability 8/10. This is our own opinion, based on specs, buyer reviews and independent tests. It is not an Amazon or customer rating.

Check the current listing and read the latest reviews before you buy. Whatever saw you choose, buy a fine-tooth finish blade for trim and a pair of safety glasses and ear protection the same day.

If you are building out a basic kit, see the new homeowner toolkit or the weekend DIYer kit for what to buy next.