Claw Hammer Buying Guide: Which Type and Size to Own

What is a claw hammer?

A claw hammer is a hand tool with a weighted head on a handle. One end of the head is a flat face for driving nails. The other end is a claw, a split hook that grips a nail and pulls it out. It is the most common hammer in homes, and the one most people mean when they say "a hammer."

The parts that change from one model to the next are the claw, the face, the handle and the weight:

A claw hammer is not a sledge or a demolition tool. Use it to drive nails and pull the ones you bend, and keep a pry bar for heavier levering.

Why you'll want one

It does the basic jobs fast. Hanging a picture, nailing trim, closing a crate, tapping a loose board back into place or building a simple frame all start with a hammer. Nothing else drives and pulls a nail with one hand.

It rarely needs power or a battery. A hammer works in a basement, on a ladder and in a garage with no outlet. That is why it is on almost every "first tools" list.

It is cheap insurance against a bad nail. Bent a nail? Flip the hammer and pull it. The claw is part of the job, not an extra.

What the tests found

We read two hands-on tests and a buying guide, and checked three videos. The patterns:

• Steel won both written tests. Bob Vila's tester named the Estwing Rip Claw 16 oz best overall after driving and pulling 16D and 8D nails. This Old House scored a 16 oz Estwing steel claw hammer 4.9 out of 5, the top score, noting minimal mishits and the best nail driving.
• Wood and fiberglass held their own. This Old House ranked a 16 oz hardwood hammer and a 16 oz oak hammer next, each scoring 4.6. A wood handle was third-best at damping vibration, though it noted some reviewers question long-term durability.
• Weight matters. The same test found a 20 oz Craftsman fiberglass hammer drove 16D nails well but transmitted more vibration and had three mishits, so heavier is not always better.
• Handle material trade-offs are clear. Bob Vila says fiberglass is lighter and absorbs vibration well, steel is the most durable, and wood absorbs shock but is more likely to split.
• Waffle faces wear smooth. In the Catus Maximus comparison, the reviewer says a waffle face on a heavily used framing hammer was almost pounded smooth, and argues a smooth face is the better buy for most people.
• Hold it near the end. The same video says vibration concentrates near the head, and choking down on the handle makes it more noticeable.

What buyers say about our three picks

We feature three 16 oz hammers across the tiers. They are examples, not the only good ones.

• Estwing E3-16S (pro tier). The listing calls it a one-piece forged American steel rip hammer with a shock reduction grip, and Amazon reviews give it a very high average. A common complaint in written and video reviews of steel hammers is that more shock reaches your hand than with wood or fiberglass, and the rip claw is less comfortable for pulling nails than a curved one. Estwing also sells a curved-claw version, the E3-16C, if nail pulling matters more to you.
• Craftsman CMHT51398 (mid tier). Buyers on Amazon rate this fiberglass hammer highly. Bob Vila calls the handle curve more pronounced than needed. This Old House's tester found a 20 oz Craftsman fiberglass hammer had more vibration than the steel winner, so check which weight you are buying.
• Stanley 51-616 (budget tier). A hickory-handled classic with a curved claw. It has far fewer reviews on Amazon than the other two, so there is less buyer feedback to go on. ToolGuyd points to it as a simple economical pick for people who do not care about steel or American-made construction.

Steel, fiberglass or wood: which to buy first?

• Choose steel if you want one hammer that will outlast the others and you do not mind a little more shock. Pick a model with a thick rubber grip.
• Choose fiberglass if you swing a hammer for longer sessions and want a light handle. Remember it cannot be repaired if it breaks.
• Choose wood if you like the traditional feel and shock absorption. Check the handle is bonded tightly to the head, and do not use it as a pry bar.

Common mistakes

• Holding the handle too close to the head. You lose power and control. Grip near the end.
• Hitting with a tilted face. The video guides say the face should hit the nail head flat. A tilted blow bends nails.
• Using the claw as a crowbar. Heavy levering breaks handles. Switch to a pry bar.
• Choosing too heavy. A heavier hammer drives nails faster but tires your arm. Pick a weight you can swing comfortably for the job.
• Skipping safety glasses. Nails can fly when you pull or strike them.

How to use it

These steps work for most nailing jobs on wood.

1. Pick the right nail. The nail should be about two to three times as long as the board you are fastening is thick, so it bites into the second piece. A nail that is too short will not hold.
2. Mark the spot. Use a pencil so you do not guess. For a row of nails, mark them with a speed square or framing square.
3. Wear safety glasses. Nails and chips can fly.
4. Hold the nail near the top. Pinch the nail between your thumb and finger, or poke it through a thin card so your fingers stay clear.
5. Grip the handle near the end. Hold firmly, not tightly, so the hammer can swing.
6. Start with light taps. Choke up on the handle to start the nail, then tap until it stands on its own.
7. Move your hand to the end of the handle. Release the nail and take full swings from the elbow and shoulder.
8. Keep the face flat. Look at the nail head, not the hammer. Hit the nail straight on.
9. Stop before the surface. If you want a nail flush, make the last blow gentle so the face does not dent the wood. For a countersunk nail, use a nail set.
10. Straighten a bent nail. Stop, tap it gently from the side, or pull it with the claw.
11. Pull a nail. Slide the claw under the head, pull back until the nail lifts, put a thin block under the head, and pull again.
12. Put the hammer away. Keep it dry. A light coat of oil on the head prevents rust.

Safety note: do not use a claw hammer to strike hardened steel such as other hammers, chisels or masonry nails, because chips can fly off. For heavier or repeat nailing, a pneumatic nail gun does the job faster, and our workbench guide shows what else you need for a first project.

What to look for when buying

• Weight. Start at 16 oz for general home use. Go to 20 oz only if you do framing.
• Claw. Curved for pulling nails, straight for prying and tight spaces. If you only own one, curved is usually the easier first choice.
• Face. Smooth for finish and household work.
• Handle. Pick steel for toughness, fiberglass for light weight or wood for tradition, and check the grip is comfortable.
• Balance. The head should feel weighted but not top-heavy.
• One-piece or tight bond. Look for forged steel, or a wood or fiberglass handle fixed firmly to the head.
• Magnetic nail holder. A bonus, though the Catus Maximus video says it never worked well for them and the slot wears out.
• Warranty. A clear maker warranty is a good sign.

Key specs to look for

Where to get it

All three are sold on Amazon. We put the Estwing in the pro tier, the Craftsman in mid and the Stanley in budget. Check the listing for the head weight and the claw type before you order.

ESTWING Rip Hammer, 16 oz Smooth Face, Shock Reduction Grip, E3-16S

Pro ($$$)Worth-owning score 9/10

• One piece of forged steel from head to handle, so there is no joint to loosen, per the maker
• Named best overall in Bob Vila's hammer test and topped This Old House's scored test as a 16 oz Estwing steel claw
• Straight rip claw is easy to slip under boards and works for light prying; the curved E3-16C is the easier choice for pulling nails

View on Amazon

How we scored it

Usefulness 9/10 · Value 8/10 · Durability 10/10. This is our own opinion, based on specs, buyer reviews and independent tests. It is not an Amazon or customer rating.

CRAFTSMAN Hammer, Fiberglass, 16 oz. (CMHT51398)

Mid ($$)Worth-owning score 7.7/10

• Curved claw and a fiberglass handle that soaks up more shock than bare steel
• Bob Vila's tester picked it as best bang for the buck after driving and pulling nails with it
• The listing says overstrike protection guards the part of the handle where fiberglass usually breaks

View on Amazon

How we scored it

Usefulness 8/10 · Value 8/10 · Durability 7/10. This is our own opinion, based on specs, buyer reviews and independent tests. It is not an Amazon or customer rating.

Stanley 51-616 16 Ounce Hickory Handle Nailing Hammer

Budget ($)Worth-owning score 7/10

• A classic curved-claw nailing hammer with a hickory handle that dampens vibration
• ToolGuyd points to it as a simple, economical choice if you do not need steel or American-made
• Wood handles can split if you pry hard on them, so use a pry bar for stubborn nails

View on Amazon

How we scored it

Usefulness 7/10 · Value 8/10 · Durability 6/10. This is our own opinion, based on specs, buyer reviews and independent tests. It is not an Amazon or customer rating.

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